Melanzane a cotoletta

Quando preparo le melanzane[1] non posso fare a meno di pensare al mio caro amico Claudio di Milano. Lui potrebbe sembrare lo stereotipo del milanese: fighetto, fabrichetta, pago – pretendo. Ma la sua origine “terrona”, nonostante il marcato accento meneghino, viene tradita da una serie di elementi inconfutabili: la sua sagace ironia molto spesso virante al macabro; la sua celata sensibilità e, soprattutto, la sua passione per le melanzane che mangerebbe pure “sbattute al muro”.

E così oggi mi è tornato in mente fortemente mentre preparavo i “mulinciani[2] a cotoletta”, una ricetta della tradizione siciliana ma con chiari riferimenti a Milano.

Praticamente un piatto “fusion-regionale”, che unisce il nord e il sud con la sua panatura dorata e croccante.

Honeydew melon jelly with raw ham

Before beginning the story and to propose you the recipe I desire to make a short linguistic aside. In Italian "honeydew melon" it is said "melon", instead in Sicilian "mellone." Out of the Trinacria people shiver earing the double consonant in that word but, detaining to reflect me on the diction, I have realized that the sound of the headword becomes full, the tongue, in the pronunciation of the double “l”, de facto, is sharpened on the palate tickling it and prefiguring the sweet taste of the fruit that actually reigns on the Sicilian tables since the end of August to January.

But banishing to the “lexical gossips”... A dear friend, some time ago, told me: But why do you not create any recipe with the white melon, the fruit of this season? I answered him that already something I had in my mind and I would have wanted to experiment it as soon as possible.

The occasion happened after a little time, when the owners of a place of Menfi asked me to organize a culinary evening. The small center, located between the territories of Trapani and Agrigento, is famous for its meaningful vine and wine production and for its tract few contaminated from the cement, with the sweet hills covered by vineyards and olive trees  that decline to the sea, so much enchanting to have deserved in the last years the denomination Menfishire.

After having thought of that for a few days and to be compares me both mine "prompter" and with other dear friends gourmets, I have elaborated a menù in which one of the hors d’oeuvre have seen how protagonist exactly the sweet yellow fruit. I have in fact realized a revisitation of the classical appetizer "melon and ham" proposing the fruit in a "jelly” version.

I served it as appetizer but, naturally, eliminating the sausage can be eats as dessert at the end of meal or in any other moment of the day.

Here is the recipe, similar in the ingredients and in the realization to the most known gelo di mellone (watermelon jelly).

Tomato sauce

In past times it was use and custom to prepare, with the home grown summer fruits, the preserves for the winter. The tomato, for example, was transformed in: "chiappe[1]"; peeled tomatos; "strattu" (tomato paste home-made) and naturally in sauce. It could not miss in the pantry a consistent stockpile of the tasty sauce of the juicy and red vegetable.

Today some willing housewife still prepares "a sarsa[2]". I am among these, so much that many my friends believe I am nut.

Well, perhaps I also will be also so a little, but the taste of this sauce is hardly comparable to that of the commercial tomato purée.

The recipe that I write you I have learned from the mother of my mother, the Nonna Nella[3] - which called Francesca Margherita in truth, but in the large families is accustomed to give some nicknames to differentiate the cousins, that often had the same name of baptism - polished woman, delicate drawer and great cook.

Not you must necessarily cook a lot quantity of it to make preserve. You can do few quantity of it and serve it with the spaghetti or with the shape of pasta that more you like, even adding fried dices eggplants, basil and the salt-cured ricotta cheese. So you will realize one of the first more famous Sicilian dishes, a real artwork: the "Pasta alla Norma"[4].

With the ingredients indicated in the recipe you will realize around two bottles of 800 ml each one.

Gateau di zucchini, nocciole e cioccolato e zenzero

Non vi lasciate ingannare dal fatto che sia una ricetta a base di vegetali, non è infatti un piatto salato bensì un dolce che ho sperimentato qualche mese fa per un’enoteca palermitana.

È un gâteau morbido e profumato, che va servito con una salsa all’arancia. Perfetto per il periodo invernale dà il giusto calore ai freddi pomeriggi stagionali se gustato con un buon tè o alle lunghe sere accompagnato da un vino liquoroso. Perfetto, secondo me, l’accostamento con l’Ala di Salaparuta vino amarascato creato apposta dal Duca Enrico per amore della moglie Sonia particolarmente ghiotta di cioccolata.

Fillets of sea bream with pistachio of Bronte

She waited him for the supper that evening. She liked to be with him. Intelligent, pleasant, of good manners, ironic he debated in the correct way even the most banal theme. She also found him very nice and with a beautiful sporting physique. The evening was prospected interesting and she was certain that they would be had a good time together. She prepared everything with care and she took care of every smallest detail. Especially in the choice of the menù, convinced as she was of the symbolic importance of the food. She elaborated it doing so that the table it was the prelude of the thalamus and she created for them a simple recipe but refined that it predisposed their bodies and souls to the sharing of the pleasure: Fillets of sea bream with pistachio of Bronte.

Marinated anchovies

The kitchen is tradition and, as such, culture. A lot of recipes of the local kitchens are impregnated with history and they have been being handed down for centuries for generation in generation. Some typical products, in many cases, also become symbol and media protagonists of a territory for their rituality, their content artistic-manual and the aesthetics that express them.

In Sicily the whole food is symbol and the island traditional kitchen shows all the characters of its people: from that more "aristocrat", of the baroques and opulent dishes left each other by the Monsùs; to the more "plebeian", that it finds again in the dishes of the agricultural and seafearing custom.

Today, luckily, in the society don't exist anymore social barriers due to titles and to honors and the same revolution has been transferring in the vision of the gastronomy. So many gods, considered in the past a dime a dozen, have been rehabilitated by the dietary and nutritional point of view and recognized as of the delicacies, thanks also to their territorial exclusiveness.

Among these we find all the "blue fish": mackerel, needle-fishes, longfin tuna, sardines, alaccie[1], anchovies. This type of fish has been being for centuries the fruit of the island fishing and we have many recipes in which it is protagonist: fried, roasted, all’acqua pazza[2], in bittersweet, marinated, with the onion, with the tomato sauce.

Mine prefer are the anchovies, then if they are marinated I find them irresistible. Greek and Romans were teachers in the maintenance of the fish and, possibly, the recipe of the "marinated Anchovies" comes us from them. Here I propose you that of my family.

Alici marinate

La cucina è tradizione e, come tale, cultura. Molte ricette delle cucine locali sono intrise di storia e sono tramandate da secoli da generazione in generazione. Alcuni prodotti tipici in molti casi divengono anche simbolo e protagonisti mediatici di un territorio per la loro ritualità, il loro contenuto artistico-manuale e l’estetica che esprimono.

In Sicilia tutto il cibo è simbolo e la cucina tradizionale isolana esprime tutti i caratteri del suo popolo: da quello più “aristocratico”, dei barocchi e opulenti piatti lasciatici dai Monsù; al più “plebeo”, che si ritrova nei piatti del costume agricolo e marinaro.

Oggi, per fortuna, nella società non esistono più barriere sociali dovute a titoli e ad onorificenze e la stessa rivoluzione è stata traslata nella visione della gastronomia. Così molti dei prodotti ritenuti un tempo poco pregiati sono stati riabilitati dal punto di vista dietetico e nutrizionale e riconosciuti come delle prelibatezze, grazie anche alla loro esclusività territoriale.

Tra questi ritroviamo tutto il “pesce azzurro”: sgombri, aguglie, alalunga, sarde, alacce, alici. Questo tipo di pesce è da secoli il frutto della pesca isolana e diverse sono le ricette di cui è protagonista: fritto, arrostito, all’acqua pazza, in agrodolce, marinato, con la cipolla, col sugo.

Le mie preferite sono le alici (o acciughe), se poi sono marinate le trovo irresistibili. Greci e Romani erano maestri nella conservazione del pesce e la ricetta delle “Alici marinate” possibilmente ci giunge proprio da loro. Qua vi propongo quella della mia famiglia.

Lukewarm salad of fava beans

It is time of fava beans still!

Passionate and "wedded" - over that to the Santuzza[1] - to a kitchen that uses products of the territory and seasonal, today I propose you a recipe of the tradition of the Sicilian popular cuisine. A very simple preparation, of country origin, that however it exalts the good taste of the green legume above all if it accompanied with some good oil of olive.

Before passing to the recipe, I reiterate the only my true recommendation: use fresh products and of first quality, always!

Insalata tiepida di fave

È ancora tempo di fave.
Appassionata e “devota” – oltre che alla Santuzza - ad una cucina che utilizzi prodotti del territorio e di stagione, vi propongo questa volta una ricetta della tradizione della cucina popolare siciliana. Una preparazione molto semplice, di origine contadina, che però esalta il buon sapore del verde legume soprattutto se accompagnato con dell’ottimo olio d’oliva.
Prima di passare alla ricetta, reitero l’unica mia vera raccomandazione: utilizzate prodotti freschi e di prima qualità, sempre!